Glossy chin-length Italian bob in dark brown, center-parted with a soft perimeter that curves under at the jaw

Italian Bob

The Italian bob is a chin-length bob with a soft perimeter and glossy, undone ends. Who the length actually suits, what it costs in styling time, and how to try it on your own face first.

Flatters
ovalroundheartdiamondoblong
Upkeep
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Ask your stylist for

“a chin-length Italian bob with a soft perimeter and airy ends — no hard undercut and no stacked graduation at the back”

Try Italian Bob on your face

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Not sure it is you? Find your face shape first.

The Italian bob lands at the chin — shorter than a lob, longer than a French bob — and what defines it is a soft perimeter rather than a hard geometric one. Blow it out smooth and it looks expensive. Let it dry on its own and it looks like the second week of a holiday. That range is why it has outlived almost every other bob variation of the last few years.

A horizontal line right at your jaw

A chin-length cut draws a horizontal line exactly where your jaw is, so the real question is whether you want attention there. Oval, heart and diamond faces gain the most, because width at the jaw balances a narrow or pointed lower face. Long faces do well too — the horizontal break shortens the vertical. Round faces can wear it comfortably as long as the length sits a touch below the chin rather than above it, which is the same reason the shorter French bob is the riskier pick. A strong square jaw is the one shape I would hesitate over: an edge running straight across at the corner of the jaw doubles it. Drop the perimeter an inch past the jawline and have the ends point-cut so the line is broken up.

What your hair has to bring

This cut is happiest on medium-to-thick hair with some natural wave, which is where the airy finish comes from without effort. Fine hair works, but keep the ends blunt and accept that volume comes from product at the root, not from the shape. Very curly hair is the genuine caution — at chin length, shrinkage decides everything, so insist on a dry cut. Check your nape too. A cowlick back there will push the shortest section outward no matter how the rest is cut, and it is better to know before the scissors than after.

Say chin-length, say soft

The Italian and the French bob get confused constantly, so lead with the length and the finish. Name the chin, name the soft perimeter, and rule out the undercut explicitly. Then plan for month four: as it grows past the jaw the ends start flipping out at the shoulder, and that stage needs either a trim back to shape or a deliberate decision to push through it toward a lob.

Read the full guide →

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